PHNOM PENH

When I arrived at the airport in Phnom Penh I asked two young girls from Australia if I could share the taxi with them to town. We went to the backpackers area, Boeng Kak, near the lake. We looked at several rooms before choosing a very basic one for five dollars a night. I could not belive how cheap it was. I was exhausted because I had not slept much for two days. But one of the motorbike taxi drivers called 'Jack',took me under his wing and said he would take me around on his bike when I was ready. He persuaded me to go to the kings palace in the afternoon. I had a couple of hours sleep (and the sheets were dirty and the room was very smelly so realised why it was so cheap, but I did not care because I was so tired.) and then he was at my door ready to take me to the palace. The traffic system is crazy here. There is no logic to the flow of cars and bikes. They just head for each other and they seem to flow past one another calmly without hitting one another. If they want to take a turning they just wait until enough bikes and vehicles have gathered that want to go in the same direction, then they just all cut across the flow of traffic and no-one seems to mind. They just dodge each other.I have spent ages trying to work it out, but to no avail. I have to say I felt very safe with Jack as he wound his way through the streets.
When we got to the palace there were lots of really young children selling books and begging.They are very cheeky and entertaining at the same time. So that you buy the books. One little girl sold me a bottle of water for a dollar. Seconds later another came and offered me two for a dollar.They all thought it was hilarious!



The palace was very ornate and very hot. I spent a couple of hours looking round and there were lots of young Buddhist monks wandering the grounds looking very resplendent in their orange robes. Theravada buddhism, is the dominant religion in Cambodia and it guides the lives of many Khmers.



When I got out the gate of the palace ,Jack, was there to meet me. He said he had just been with is wife to the hospital as she was four months pregnant and she needed a checkup. I was not sure if this was a scam to extort more money from me for his family.
He was snacking on something so I asked him what it was and he showed me a big black beetle. He proceeded to snap the legs off and the crusty shell then eat it. He offered them to me.


I recoiled in horror. But then I thought that I did say I was going to try new things. And if it is normal for them to eat them, then I should give it a go. I have to say it took me two or three attempts to actually put it in my mouth. But when I did I was very surprised because it was actually tasty,and also very chewy. It was not so tasty that I wanted another one!!! Jack then offered to go and buy me some spiders to eat. But I declined saying 'maybe tomorrow Jack', But in my head I was saying 'Not even tomorrow Jack could I contemplate eating spiders!!!) I was feeling really pleased with myself for eating the beetle, and that was good enough for one day.
He took me back to the guesthouse.
I decided to go to one of the rickety old guesthouses on stilts on the edege of the lake for a cool beer. No sooner than I had sat down, there were little childrens voices shouting "hey want a boat?"Gondola! Gondola! , do you want a Gondola for a dollar?"
And these little faces popped up over the edge of the decking..


They were young scruffy boys who earnt money by taking tourist for a little boat trip through the reeds and flowers in the lake. They had the cheeky patter down pat and they really made me laugh. Jumping from boat to boat and dancing about on their boats. I was just going to have a go when the heavens opened and it rained for ages. So I moved inside and spent the next few hours chatting and having a few beers with a lovely couple from Amsterdam, Renske and Paul.

NEW YEAR ON THE BUS TO BANGKOK

I got the ferry from Ko Toa to Chumpon on the mainland of Thailand. The crossing was very rough! a lot of people were seasick. I opted for getting soaked on deck but not being sick. I was drenched but it was good fun as well. At Chumpon the beaches were fantastic, there waw hardly any development. Just the kind of place I had been looking for on the islands. I suspect it will not be too long before they decide to overdevelope it and bring in busloads of tourists to change its character and charm.
We were herded onto a double decker airconditioned de-lux bus to Bangkok. The journey was due to take around eight hours.
I was sat behind a very portly gentleman and his equally portly friend. They moaned all the way and before the film was aired they proceeded to say how much they did not like the film. They then discussed the storyline and the twist at the end. Pretty much ruining it for most people.
They then both pushed their seats as far down in the recline position as they could and coughed and spluttered for the rest of the journey. With the odd burst of loud snoring thrown in for good measure.
At the same time the lady next to me kept falling asleep on my shoulder.
So you can imagine any thoughts of celebrating new year when the clock hit midnight went out the window. But I did enjoy being at the top of the bus and looking out the window at all the villages as we went by. And I did manage to doze off at times.
We stopped at a service station after about four hours and the two guys in front of me filled their faces with massive portions of curry then got back on the bus.
And they then added beltching to their repetoir!!
Lizzie Drippin sent me a text message from Australia as she saw in the new year with Keith and Carmie mustard. And I have to say that really cheered me up and I did actually look forward to midnight. A few other people who had worked out the time difference sent me messages.So despite everything I did have a happy new year!!
And I do feel so happy travelling and meeting interesting people. It is great not worrying about getting old at work and being bullied and marginalised. The people I meet take me at face value and they engage in friendly conversation. My self esteem and confidence is gradully coming back.
When we got to Bangkok at one o clock in the morning it was all lit up and the streets were full of people who had been celebrating the new year at a massive fireworks display. It was great to see.
I got a taxi to the airport and waited around for five hours before getting the plane to Phnom Penh in, Cambodia.

KO TAO ISLAND

I got the ferry to Ko Tao. It was a very old looking thing, it is amazing how we are all just herded onto the ferrys and we take it for granted they are safe. But when I saw this one pull into dock to collect us , I did have my doubts that it was seaworthy. It seems to have been in a few scrapes with other ships or rocks a few times.
Anyway I arrived in ko Tao in the searing heat. It was hard work getting through all the taxi drivers and room touts with my rucksac. Finally found the place where the girls had reserved a room.But the previous guest in the room was staying an extra night, so there was no room in the inn. I thought my blood would boil in the heat. They showed me a room and said I could stay in it for two pounds, but it was horrendous and I declined and found another place to stay next door.This had a fan and cold shower for eight pounds, a bargain!. And I could move the next day to the same placeas the Irish girls are stying'Save Bungalows". The room would be five pounds for fan and cold shower, another bargain!

The island is famous as a diving and snorkelling mecca around the coral reefs. so there are lots of very fit looking fellas wandering around, which is always nice!
I am afraid I will stick to the snorkelling, I know I would panick if I went diving. so there is no point shelling out money for the course.
I met up with Lisa, Maive and Joanne and we went to a bar for a few drinks and something to eat.
The next day wandered around the island and searched the second hand book shops for a book recommended by Carmel,Letters from Cambodia, but could not find it.Will have a look when I get to Cambodia.
There is a lot of building work going on on the island.They are creating little boutique type shops and posh hotles.but I feel they are ruining the things that make people want to explore these Islands. It is just getting very touristy. The postcards have pictures of lovely long deserted beaches ,but they no longer exist. They are being built upon at a horrendous rate. I am glad I visited, but I would not come back.

Later in the day I met up with the Girls from Ireland again and had something to eat then we went to see the Thai boxing.


I have to say , I was in two minds about going. I do not like violence. But it is such a big sporting occasion over here. I wanted to find out what all the fuss was about. And I thought it would be fun going with a few of us.



Well it was good fun in a strange way. There were seven fights throughout the night. And it seemed to me that they just kicked the crap out of each other wearing boxing gloves. The crowds were baying for blood. I have never seen anything like it. There were even little children there watching the violence. I can now say I have seen Thai boxing and had a good night,but I will not be going to any more fights.
I am getting the ferry to Chumphon this afternoon, on mainland Thailand. Then I get an air conditioned bus so Bangkok. It arrives at one in the morning so I will get a taxi to the airport and wait around until my flight to Phnom Phenh at seven in the morning.I am very excited about exploring Cambodia.