Friday, January 4, 2008

PHNOM PENH

When I arrived at the airport in Phnom Penh I asked two young girls from Australia if I could share the taxi with them to town. We went to the backpackers area, Boeng Kak, near the lake. We looked at several rooms before choosing a very basic one for five dollars a night. I could not belive how cheap it was. I was exhausted because I had not slept much for two days. But one of the motorbike taxi drivers called 'Jack',took me under his wing and said he would take me around on his bike when I was ready. He persuaded me to go to the kings palace in the afternoon. I had a couple of hours sleep (and the sheets were dirty and the room was very smelly so realised why it was so cheap, but I did not care because I was so tired.) and then he was at my door ready to take me to the palace. The traffic system is crazy here. There is no logic to the flow of cars and bikes. They just head for each other and they seem to flow past one another calmly without hitting one another. If they want to take a turning they just wait until enough bikes and vehicles have gathered that want to go in the same direction, then they just all cut across the flow of traffic and no-one seems to mind. They just dodge each other.I have spent ages trying to work it out, but to no avail. I have to say I felt very safe with Jack as he wound his way through the streets.
When we got to the palace there were lots of really young children selling books and begging.They are very cheeky and entertaining at the same time. So that you buy the books. One little girl sold me a bottle of water for a dollar. Seconds later another came and offered me two for a dollar.They all thought it was hilarious!



The palace was very ornate and very hot. I spent a couple of hours looking round and there were lots of young Buddhist monks wandering the grounds looking very resplendent in their orange robes. Theravada buddhism, is the dominant religion in Cambodia and it guides the lives of many Khmers.



When I got out the gate of the palace ,Jack, was there to meet me. He said he had just been with is wife to the hospital as she was four months pregnant and she needed a checkup. I was not sure if this was a scam to extort more money from me for his family.
He was snacking on something so I asked him what it was and he showed me a big black beetle. He proceeded to snap the legs off and the crusty shell then eat it. He offered them to me.


I recoiled in horror. But then I thought that I did say I was going to try new things. And if it is normal for them to eat them, then I should give it a go. I have to say it took me two or three attempts to actually put it in my mouth. But when I did I was very surprised because it was actually tasty,and also very chewy. It was not so tasty that I wanted another one!!! Jack then offered to go and buy me some spiders to eat. But I declined saying 'maybe tomorrow Jack', But in my head I was saying 'Not even tomorrow Jack could I contemplate eating spiders!!!) I was feeling really pleased with myself for eating the beetle, and that was good enough for one day.
He took me back to the guesthouse.
I decided to go to one of the rickety old guesthouses on stilts on the edege of the lake for a cool beer. No sooner than I had sat down, there were little childrens voices shouting "hey want a boat?"Gondola! Gondola! , do you want a Gondola for a dollar?"
And these little faces popped up over the edge of the decking..


They were young scruffy boys who earnt money by taking tourist for a little boat trip through the reeds and flowers in the lake. They had the cheeky patter down pat and they really made me laugh. Jumping from boat to boat and dancing about on their boats. I was just going to have a go when the heavens opened and it rained for ages. So I moved inside and spent the next few hours chatting and having a few beers with a lovely couple from Amsterdam, Renske and Paul.

2 comments:

Carmel said...

Eeeuuuwwwww! You ate a cockroach...! I can't believe it, I could never do that... Was it crunchy?

Glad to hear your adventures are continuing, hope you don't get too scammed by the youngsters.

cx

Unknown said...

Hi S - I too cannot believe you ate that crunchy cockroach!! You .. the one who went through detox and would not eat meat on Phi Phi (Rob said - good thinking). Sounds like you are having a wonderful "finding yourself time". Look forward to seeing you in Melbourne. Love Heather & Rob xx